Background of the Invention:
[0001] The present invention relates to textile fabrics manufactured using olefin fibers
or yarns modified to dye using disperse dyes. These fabrics are conventionally colored
using existing disperse dye or printing systems. Either solid shades or multiple tones
of a shade are achieved in a single dye bath or print application. The fabrics in
this invention are manufactured into greige goods produced by the knitting, weaving
or non-woven process. Solid shades are achieved by grafting into the olefin yarn or
fiber with one level of dye additive and subjecting the fabric to a disperse dye bath.
Multiple ends of yarn each containing differing percentages of dye additives are manufactured
into fabrics. The fabric will dye to multiple tones in a single dye bath. By increasing
the amount of disperse dyeable additive in the olefin yarn or fiber, the affinity
for disperse dye increases accordingly. The fabrics manufactured according to this
invention are stored at the dye house undyed. Color is then added using conventional
disperse dye machines or print dye methods. Surprising and novel effects are achieved
using economical conventional disperse dye systems known to those skilled in the art.
This invention is of particular usefulness in the apparel and home furnishings industry.
The fabrics produced feel and, appear as conventional fabrics but are approximately
30-38% lighter in weight. This is due to the fact that the specific gravity of olefin
is .91 while the specific gravity of cotton or polyester is 1.38. In addition, the
light fastness and wash fastness properties are similar to those of polyester.
Brief Description of the Related Art:
[0002] Knitted and woven fabrics and textile articles are an enormous worldwide enterprise.
Cotton is the predominant choice of fiber used to make woven or knitted textile fabrics.
Cotton has been used through the ages to make yarn and textile articles. Cotton is
a natural fiber and is grown in many parts of the world. Many cotton-spinning systems
exist worldwide. Cotton yarns are easily produced for both apparel and home furnishings
using the cotton spinning system. Egyptian and United States cotton staple is the
most widely used cotton to produce yarn and fabrics.
[0003] The cotton spinning system starts with bales of cotton picked from the fields. The
fiber is called "staple" and is usually 3/4" to 1.5" in length. The longer length
cotton is more expensive than the shorter length staple. Longer length staple will
result in a superior spun yarn. Machines clean, card, and make roving to various sizes.
Cotton is made into yarn of various sizes by twisting or "spinning" the roving on
machines well known in this art. A yarn is produced to be either knitted or woven
to create fabric for apparel or home furnishings. By using varying sizes of large
or small yarns the knitting or weaving manufacturer can make various types of garments
or furnishings. If the cotton fabric is manufactured and kept in the undyed state
the fabric is called a greige fabric. This is the most common and economical method
of manufacturing the most widely used cotton fabrics. Normally the dying or printing
of the fabric is done after orders are received from the end user of the fabric. The
dyed cotton fabric is then cut into the proper shapes and all sorts of apparel garments
are sewn together from these parts. Cotton is used to make underwear, socks, sweaters,
shirts, slacks, casual sports wear and dresses. Cotton is not usually used to make
sports jackets, men's or ladies suits or outerwear
[0004] The most common system of putting color on cotton apparel fabric is to dye the woven,
knitted or non-woven fabric. The fabric is placed in a machine containing water, vat
or direct dyes and chemicals. The temperature of the liquor or dye bath is adjusted
to the desired degree. The skilled operator will use this process to produce the desired
shade on the cotton fabric. The fabric is dried, and finished according to the customer's
specifications. The dye house is a capital-intensive operation that contains expensive
dye and finishing equipment. A dye house in addition to dyeing will have drying and
finishing equipment such as compactors, chemical applicators and rolling or folding
equipment. A good substitute for cotton would ideally be able to be processed using
present cotton spinning, dyeing and finishing equipment systems to dye and finish
cotton are in place worldwide.
[0005] Cotton has been the choice in fabrics for the following reasons:
Cotton is easily grown in many parts of the world.
Cotton is easily converted into yarn because it grows to standard staple lengths.
Cotton yarns process well on most knitting and weaving machines.
Cotton fabrics are soft to the touch and feel comfortable to the users body.
Cotton wicks and absorbs moisture.
Cotton dyes very easily.
Cotton blends well with other synthetic fibers.
[0006] Cloth knitted or woven of cotton has standard nomenclature and is purchased as a
commodity from most parts of the world. A manufacturer can buy a standard cotton fabric
from anywhere in the world. Then the manufacturer sends the cloth to a dye house to
be stored as uncolored greige cloth awaiting orders for colored cloth. The dyed cloth
is cut and sewn into apparel garments or home furnishing items such as draperies,
bedspreads, or upholstery.
Synthetics:
[0007] Many attempts have been tried to create an acceptable synthetic fiber or yarn that
is a good substitute for cotton and will process on conventional spinning equipment.
[0008] The worldwide demand for cotton is such that synthetic substitutes had to be introduced
since there would not be enough acreage available to produce enough cotton world wide
to meet the demand for affordable fabrics and garments for the growing multitude of
human population. It is very desirable to produce synthetic substitutes for cotton.
Rayon:
[0009] Many attempts have been made to produce a synthetic substitute for cotton. Rayon
and rayon acetate were the first successful attempts to produce a substitute for cotton.
Cellulose from wood is used in the Rayon process. Rayon and rayon acetate is widely
used in the apparel and home furnishings industry. However producing these yarns and
fibers causes a great deal of pollution and they are not produced in the United States
of America. The rayon process uses caustic and anhydride in great quantities. Rayon
has very desirable qualities. It is easy to dye, and the garments produced are bright
and soft and are a good substitute for cotton. Since most rayon has to be imported
and manufactured by specialty manufactures it is expensive and not used as a choice
except for expensive high fashion garments. Rayon is also blended with cotton or other
synthetics to make fabrics having desirable characteristics such as feel or drape.
Rayon or acetate has the same specific gravity as cotton. These fibers do not provide
a weight advantage when it is substituted for cotton. Their specific gravity is the
same as the specific gravity of cotton.
Acrylics:
[0010] Synthetic fiber made using the acrylonitrile process is also used to make a soft
fiber. Brands such as Acrilan from the Solutia Co., Creslan from American Cyanamid
and Mannacryl from Mann Industries are examples. This fiber is not easily dyed and
is mostly produced in large pigment dyed lots. Additionally acrylic is more expensive
than cotton. It has a specific gravity of 1.17, which makes it ideal for a blend with
wool for sweaters and for use in hosiery. Because it is solution dyed the yarn made
from acrylic fibers is suited ideally for outdoor use in awnings, lawn and garden
upholstery. Acrylic fiber is not a good substitute for cotton.
Polyester:
[0011] Synthetics, the majority being polyester, account for almost one half of all fibers
used to produce textile fabrics.
[0012] Almost 60 years ago, polyester staple was introduced by the Dupont Company to be
a replacement for cotton. It did not replace cotton but it is commonly used to mix
or blend with cotton. Initially polyester was harsh and coarse. It did not absorb
moisture well and is very difficult to dye. Over a long period of years polyester
fibers were engineered to feel soft, and to blend with cotton so that a yarn could
be made using the cotton spinning system. The most popular polyester is called "micro
denier". Micro denier is extruded through spinneret holes that make a size of fiber
that is smaller than cotton. It is very common to find blends of 60% cotton with 40%
polyester. There are many blends of cotton/polyester. These blends are found in knitted
and woven textile fabrics. Many expensive modifications were made to be able to spin
and then dye fabrics made from blends of polyester and cotton. In today's modern dye
and finishing facilities undyed fabrics made from yarns that are blends of cotton
and polyester are dyed finished and shipped to the end user in solid colors. It takes
great skill to match the cotton shade which is dyed with one type of dye, to the polyester
shade which is dyed using disperse dye. When dyeing blends of this nature, a two-step
process is used and it is more expensive than using a one step process.
[0013] Polyester has many drawbacks. It is difficult to dye and great skill is needed to
dye a uniform shade of polyester and cotton. The polyester fibers require high temperatures
under pressure to absorb high energy disperse dyes. Cotton dyes with direct or vat
dyes that do not require pressure or high temperatures. The dye houses that dye a
cotton/polyester blend are highly skilled. Fabrics made with blends of cotton and
polyester must be dyed using the two-step process. First one then the other is dyed.
Most skilled dye houses keep large quantities of disperse shades for the purpose of
dyeing polyester and blends of polyester and cotton.
[0014] Manufacturing polyester is a very large enterprise. Approximately 33 billion pounds
of polyester are produced world wide for application in apparel and home furnishings.
While polyester is widely used world wide, it has many disadvantages.
Polyester has the following disadvantages:
It requires great skill to blend polyester with cotton
Polyester is difficult to dye
Polyester is warm to the body.
Textile fabrics made using 100% Polyester feel heavy.
High temperatures and pressure are required to dye or print polyester.
Polyester will not wick moisture
[0015] It is very desirable in the apparel and home furnishings industry to have available
a synthetic yarn or fabric that has novel characteristics. Ideally the synthetic fiber
could be used to make a yarn for a fabric that would be similar to a fabric made from
100% cotton. Polyester does not meet these standards
Olefin:
[0016] Olefin (polypropylene, polyethylene) is a manufactured fiber, which is composed of
at least 85% ethylene, propylene or other olefin units. Olefin is an ideal substitute
for cotton except for the fact that is not easily dyed on conventional dyeing or printing
systems. Olefin is easy and economical to produce into fiber that feels just like
cotton. I have found that an olefin of 1.8 denier per filament and a 1.5" to 2" staple
length is an ideal substitute for cotton. In addition to its "feel" olefin fiber has
the following characteristics:
Olefin fiber is easily converted into yarn using existing spinning systems
Olefin yarn will process well on knitting, weaving machines.
Olefin yarn is soft to the touch
Olefin staple processes well on non woven machines
Olefin fabrics feel similar to cotton
Olefin will dry quickly
Olefin will pass moisture but retain body heat.
Olefin is very stain resistant
Disadvantage of Olefin Fiber and Yam:
[0017] The main disadvantage of olefin is the fact that it is a fiber that is not dyeable
by conventional dye systems. Almost all olefin fiber and yarn is pigment or solution
dyed. Fabric made from pigment dyed yarn cannot be dyed to fashion shades as orders,
are received. This makes fabric manufacture prohibitively expensive and inventories
too large to manage in the apparel and home furnishings industry. Polypropylene is
presently used mainly for making carpet and rugs.
[0018] US patent
US-5 576 366 relates to a dyeable polyolefin composition.
Summary of the Invention:
[0019] The object of the present invention is to create a novel knitted woven or non-woven
fabric using synthetic yarn that has most of the characteristics of cotton fabrics
and overcomes the disadvantages of polyester fabrics. To qualify as a good substitute
for cotton fabrics, the fabrics has to be available in greige goods, be easy to dye
on conventional systems, be soft to touch; the fabric must "breathe" and wick moisture
away from the body. The fabrics made using the synthetic yarns of the invention will
be easy to wash either by hand or machine and will not stain by ordinary household
food stains. The fabrics made using the invention are lighter in weight using standard
size yarns and dry faster than cotton fabrics at room temperature. The fabrics made
using this invention have superior light and wash fastness.
[0020] Further objects and further scope of the present invention will become apparent from
the detailed description given hereinafter. It should be understood however that the
detailed descriptions and examples are given by way of illustration only since various
changes and innovations within the spirit of this invention will become apparent to
those skilled in the art.
[0021] Although the cotton spinning system is the most widely used system, one skilled in
the art can produce fiber that can be made into yarn using any conventional spinning
system. Worsted, woolen and modified worsted are some of the more common spinning
methods. The fiber length and denier can be varied to fit any spinning system.
[0022] In addition to staple fiber spun into yarn there is a large production of continuous
filament yarn. This invention can be applied to either fiber or continuous filament
yarn.
[0023] Briefly described, the present invention relates to a method (not claimed) of using
disperse dyeable synthetic olefin yarn and fibers to manufacture knitted woven and
non woven fabric greige goods that are easy to dye and process using commercially
available disperse dye systems. The novel advantages of these greige goods over cotton,
and blends of cotton polyester will be apparent from the detailed description. This
invention also shows the preferred novel additives to be grafted onto Olefin to make
it disperse dyeable.
[0024] More precisely, the invention provides a disperse dyeable fiber or filament comprising
a melt blend of a polyolefin and amorphous PETG.
Detailed Description of the Invention:
[0025] The present invention relates to manufacturing a knitted, woven or non-woven fabric
using an olefin yarn or fiber that has been enhanced to accept disperse dye. The olefin
does not dye but the additive that is grafted to the olefin of the present invention
will accept any disperse dye that is used at dye facilities used to dye polyester
or blends of polyester and cotton. No special dyes have to be purchased to achieve
shades of all description. The olefin of the invention will only accepts disperse
dyes. This invention uses grafted additives in olefin to create yarns that are made
into woven, knitted or non-woven greige goods fabric. The fabric of this invention
is stored as uncolored inventory. The greige goods are colored using disperse dyes
usually used to dye polyester. Very high temperatures used to dye polyester are not
necessary to dye the olefin fabrics. A temperature of 220°F - 250°F is ideal. Bright
deep shades of any color are achieved when dyeing olefin fabrics using this invention.
Multitones:
[0026] Multitones are dyed in addition to just one solid color. Olefin yarns with dye enhancer
grafted of from 1% to 15% is used to make fabrics dye to multi-tones of the same shade
in one dye bath containing disperse dyes. This is achieved by grafting varying strengths
of the concentrate dye enhancer specified in this invention into the olefin fibers
or yarns. By example, I will call a yarn with 5% dye enhancer A, a yarn with 3% dye
enhancer B and a yarn with 1.5% dye enhancer C. When yarn A, B, and C are placed together
on fabric forming machines, such as a weaving machine, the resultant fabric is dyed
into novel three self tones of a color in a single dye bath. One will be dark, one
medium and one light. The preferred range of concentrate grafted is from 1% to 7%.
[0027] When a fabric is made using yarns containing two dye levels and one yarn without
any concentrate the result will be a fabric with two tones and a white. This aspect
creates novel and surprising effects. One skilled in the art will find many pleasing
ways to make novel fabrics using this invention.
Solid Shades:
[0028] Fabric made from olefin yarn will dye a solid shade when made using yarn that has
only one level of concentrate grafted. The preferred concentrate grafted should be
5% on the weight of the goods. Other concentrations can be used to vary the dye take
up but I have found the preferred mixture to be 5% on the weight of the goods to make
solid shades.
[0029] Surprising and novel effects can be achieved using 100% olefin yarns of this invention.
Benefits of using Olefin made according to this invention follow:
- 1. Olefin fabric is wash fast in warm water.
- 2. Olefin fabric can be line dried or quickly machine dried at a cool temperature.
- 3. Disperse dyed olefin fabric does not stretch or shrink in the wash process.
- 4. Olefin fabric dries substantially wrinkle free.
- 5. Olefin fabric is stain resistant.
- 6. Olefin fabric is soft to the touch.
- 7. Olefin fabric is 38% lighter than cotton.
- 8. Olefin fabric will wick moisture and breathe.
- 9. Olefin fabrics will resist mildew and algae growths.
- 10. Olefin has a higher bulk than most fibers.
- 11. Olefin yarn can be manufactured by either spinning or continuous filament.
- 12. An olefin fabric is characterized by being an easy care, travel friendly garment.
Olefin Dye Enhancers:
[0030] There are various methods of making or enhancing olefin to accept dyes.
Related Patents:
[0031]
| 6,420,482 Domingguez et al |
4,320,046 Havens |
| 6,146,574 Henkee et al |
3,926,553 Fuest |
| 6,126,701 Calogero |
3,652,198 Farber et al |
| 5,576,366 Sheth |
3,622,264 Brown et al |
| 5,550,192 Sheth et al |
3,315,014 Coover et al |
| 5,169,405 Hoyt et al |
3,256,362 Craubuer et al |
[0032] All of the above patents instruct one skilled in the art on how to make a graft that
when grafted onto polyolefin will make the polyolefin dyeable. All refer to a chemistry
that is quite different from the chemistry of this invention.
Craubuer No. 3,256,362 refers to unsaturated polyester, which differs from the rest of the above inventions.
The Craubuer Patent requires a difficult to mix and unrelated type of polyester. The
unsaturated polyester in that patent is not amorphous and does not blend well at lower
temperatures required to produce olefin.
[0033] Each method described in the above patents incur problems spinning or extruding small
sizes that are necessary for apparel. Dyeing yarns or fabrics of these prior patents
requires special equipment or dye selection. None to the inventor's knowledge has
been applied on a large scale to making apparel or woven home furnishings textile
articles. The carpet industry has used the yarns in a limited manner. It is desirable
to have a dyeable olefin that can be used for apparel and home furnishings and not
be limited to carpet manufacture. In addition, it is only practical to use dyeable
olefin when non-modified available disperse dye stuffs will enable the dyer to match
shades in the laboratory that are transferable to the production dye machine with
little or no modification. This invention allows the dyer to match shades in the laboratory
that are easily transferred to the production machine.
[0034] A preferred method of rendering polyolefin disperse dyeable is as follows:
A mixture of amorphous PETG (glycol modified polyethylene terephthalate) is the preferred
ingredient used to graft onto polyolefin. Amorphous PETG is selected because it melts
at a temperature similar to that of polypropylene. This enables one skilled in the
art to make dyeable Polyolefin using a conventional olefin fiber extrusion machine.
No special equipment is needed to perform this operation. The advantage of this additive
is the fact that drying and moisture reduction is not necessary to add the graft.
In addition to the amorphous PETG this invention used maleic anhydride to improve
the dispersion and graft cohesion in the olefin fiber. A preferred product is amorphous
PETG No. 1428 from Eastman Chemical and Maleic Anhydride No. 3200 from Uniroyal. A
blend using 96% PETG 1428 and 4% Maleic Anhydride is ideal) (percentages are by weight
unless otherwise specified). I let the blend down in polypropylene to create a compound
that is 50% active. 50% is polypropylene, 48% is amorphous PETG, and 2% is maleic
anhydride. One skilled in the art will choose the appropriate method to make the compound.
Of course this is the best suggestion but by experimentation, one skilled in the art
would vary the percentages to suit their needs. The compound is in pellet form and
packaged in Gaylord's or drums without special gas sealant necessary.
[0035] Maleic anhydride is used to help the graft securely anchor onto the polyolefin. The
maleic anhydride is not necessary to make the olefin disperse dyeable. However I found
that if the maleic anhydride is eliminated, the amorphous PETG does not disperse evenly.
This results in uneven dispersion and unlevel dyeing.
Dyeable Olefin Fiber and yarn:
[0036] Pellets containing 48% amorphous PETG (polyester) 2% Maleic Anhydride and 50% polypropylene
are fed to an olefin fiber extruder using 10% owg (on weight of the goods). The result
is a fiber containing 5% disperse dyeable mix grafted onto 95% olefin. One skilled
in the art will vary the blend of graft to olefin to achieve the desired shade when
subjected to a dye bath containing disperse dye. I have varied the mix and dyed the
fiber and found the preferred enhancement to be 5% owg for deep solid shades and 2.5%
owg for lighter shades. When subjecting a 5% owg fiber and a 2.5% owg fiber to a single
dye bath a pleasing two-tone shade resulted from a single dye bath. I use the nomenclature
"dye enhanced olefin" to describe the grafted product.
[0037] Pellets containing a blend of 50% olefin, 48% amorphous PETG and 2% Maleic Anhydride
is preferred for the following reasons:
Disperse dye is the only dye that the graft will absorb.
The blend melts at the processing temperature of olefin
The blend combines and easily extrudes into pellets.
The blended pellets do not have to be bone dry to feed into the olefin fiber extruder
The blend mixes evenly and is well dispersed within the olefin during fiber extrusion.
The dyeable graft is stable when subjected to any dyeing conditions
Grafted yarn or fabric will dye or print using standard disperse dyes.
Printing is easily achieved and requires only 2 to 4 minutes exposure to steam at
a 212°F. temp.
Colors are wash fast at warm temperatures of 175°F
The graft enhances olefin "feel".
[0038] The present invention will now be described in more detail.
Example I - Single Color Fabrics
[0039]
a.) Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are extruded and intimately mixed
with the blend using the above-preferred mixture of PETG and Maleic Anhydride The
blend of 95% olefin and 5% PETG/Maleic is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The fiber dpf is 1.8 and is cut to 1.5". Approximately
1,000 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to
that of cotton and so is the staple length.
b.) The dye enhanced olefin bales of staple fiber are blended together at the cotton
carding process and made into an intimate blend of roving. The roving made using conventional
cotton equipment is ring spun into a 10/1 cotton count and taken up on 3-pound packages.
Approximate 1000 pounds of yarn is produced
c.) The 10/1-olefin yarn is knitted on a 10 cut circular knitting machine. This manufacturing
process forms an undyed greige goods fabric that is ideal to make cut and sewn sweaters.
d.) The sweater greige goods fabric is dyed in a conventional jet-dyeing machine ordinarily
used to dye polyester. The temperature is kept at 250°F to avoid damage to the olefin.
A disperse dye Terasil Blue BRL at .005% owg is used with standard dye dispersion
chemicals and water. The resultant sweater fabric is a novel and pleasing bright shade
of deep blue. The fabric is dried in a relatively cool oven. The temperature is kept
below the melt temperature of olefin or at 200°F. The water flashes off the olefin
leaving a dry bright fabric, which is rolled and wrapped for shipment. Drying time
is greatly reduced in comparison to a cotton or cotton polyester blend because the
olefin only holds limited amounts of water.
f.) The sweater fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel. It is at least 30%
lighter in weight than a cotton sweater made to the same specifications. This is because
the olefin specific gravity is .91 Vs 1.38 for cotton or cotton polyester.
[0040] This novel sweater will actually float in water. The sweater has the look and feel
of cotton yet is substantially lighter in weight. It is understood by one skilled
in the art that different weight fabrics using various sizes of yarn can be produced
in the same manner.
Example II - Tone on Tone Olefin Fabric
[0041] Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are intimately mixed and grafted
with an olefin dye enhancement blend described above. The mixture is 95% olefin with
5% disperse dye enhancement concentrate consisting of PETG and Maleic Anhydride as
described in this invention. The mixture is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The dpf is 1.8 and the staple is cut to 1.5". Approximately
1,000 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to
that of cotton and so is the staple length. This batch is called "staple A".
b) Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are intimately mixed and grafted
with an olefin dye enhancement blend described above. The mixture is 97% olefin with
3% disperse dye enhancement concentrate consisting of PETG and Maleic Anhydride as
described in this invention. The mixture is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The dpf is 1.8 and the staple is cut to 1.5". Approximately
1,000 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to
that of cotton and so is the staple length. This batch is called "staple B".
c.) Separately the olefin bales of staple fiber are blended at the cotton carding
process and made into roving. The roving is made using conventional cotton equipment
is spun into a 10/1 cotton count and taken up on 3 pound packages. Approximate 1000
pounds of each yarn is produced for a total of 1,000 pounds of olefin with 5% concentrate
(yarn A) and 1000 pounds of olefin grafted with 3% concentrate (yarn B). Both will
accept disperse dyes.
d.) Olefin Yarn A containing a 5% concentrate, and Olefin yarn B containing a 3% concentrate
are placed side by side on a 10 cut knitting machine. Both yarns are 10/1. The olefin
yarns are knitted on a 10 cut circular knitting machine. This manufacturing process
forms an undyed greige goods fabric that is ideal to make sweaters when cut and sewn.
e.) The sweater greige fabric is dyed in a conventional jet-dyeing machine ordinarily
used to dye polyester. The temperature is kept at 250°F to avoid damage to the olefin.
A disperse dye, Terasil Blue BRL at .005% owg is used with standard dye dispersion
chemicals and water. The resultant sweater fabric is a novel and pleasing two-tone
shade of blue. Only one dye bath is used to obtain more than one shade on the fabric.
The fabric is dried in relatively cool oven. The temperature is kept below the melt
temperature of olefin or 200°F. Drying time is greatly reduced in comparison to a
cotton or cotton polyester blend. The water flashes off the olefin leaving a dry bright
two-tone blue fabric, which is rolled and wrapped for shipment.
f.) The two-tone sweater fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel. The two-tone
effect is novel and looks natural like a wool or linen. It is 30% lighter in weight
than a cotton sweater made to the same specifications. This is because the olefin
specific gravity is .91 Vs 1.38 for cotton or cotton polyester. This novel sweater
will actually float in water.
[0042] It is to be understood that by varying the amount of concentrate and the number of
olefin yarns fed to a knitting or weaving machine a person skilled in the art can
create numerous fashionable and novel greige goods fabrics made from olefin, or blends
of olefin with other yarns fed to various knitting or weaving machines. It is understood
by one skilled in the art that different weight fabrics using various sizes of yarn
can be produced in the same manner.
Example III - Solid Shade of Continuous Filament Fabric
[0043] Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are extruded and intimately mixed
with the blend using the above-preferred mixture of PETG and Maleic Anhydride .The
blend of 95% olefin and 5% PETG/Maleic is extruded into a continuous filament yarn
using conventional extrusion equipment. The filament fiber dpf is 5.4. Approximately
1,000 pounds of yarn are produced and wound on perns.
b.) The undrawn yarn is drawn 3.0 to 1 and false twist textured on a conventional
texturing machine. The textured yarn has 277 filaments of 1.8 denier each. The yarn
is soft and feels like cotton. The yarn is bright and uncolored and put up on 3 pound
cones. Proper spin finish is applied in the process.
c.) The textured yarn is knitted on a ten cut knitting machine. The result is a bright
soft looking sweater greige fabric that is not dyed.
d.) The bright textured continuous filament sweater greige goods fabric is dyed in
a conventional jet-dyeing machine ordinarily used to dye polyester. The temperature
is kept bellow 250°F to avoid damage to the olefin. A disperse dye Terasil Blue BRL
at .005% owg is used with standard dye dispersion chemicals. The resultant sweater
fabric is a novel and pleasing bright shade of solid colored deep blue. The fabric
is dried in relatively cool oven. The temperature is kept below the melt temperature
of olefin or 200°F. Drying time is greatly reduced in comparison to a cotton or cotton
polyester blend. The water flashes off the olefin leaving a dry bright slinky fabric,
soft to the touch, which is rolled and wrapped for shipment.
e.) The continuous filament sweater fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel.
It is bright, "slinky" and fashionable. It is a solid color but by using the same
technique as in example II above, one skilled in the art can vary the olefin yarns
and achieve a two or three tone novel effect from one dye bath. It is 30% lighter
in weight than a sweater made from polyester. This is because the olefin specific
gravity is .91 Vs 1.38 for polyester. This novel sweater will actually float in water.
It is wash and wear and would be ideal for a travel garment.
[0044] It should be understood by one skilled in the art that the same technique can be
use to produce finer filaments of 20, 70, 120, 150 denier. The example above is to
show that continuous filament yarns can be made dyeable using the same PETG and Maleic
Anhydride blend that is used to make staple fiber dyeable. Woven fabric can also be
made using these yarns.
Example IV - Printing Olefin Fabrics
[0045] Screen Printing- The knitted fabric from Example I was fed to a 6 color aqueous continuous
screen-printing machine. A standard dye paste using disperse dyes was prepared for
each screen with thickener. The screens were made to allow a six color pleasing floral
pattern to be produced. The print paste was screened on the fabric. The fabric was
fed to a steam box to set the dyes. Two to four minutes of steam at 212°F is required
to set the dye. The fabric is fed to the steam box and is taken up in a continuous
system washed of excessive dyes and dried. The result was a pleasing 6-color floral
printed sweater fabric.
[0046] The novel effect was achieved without bleeding or excessive pick up. Drying time
was greatly reduced and the oven was set to allow 200°F to come in contact with the
fabric. It is understood that woven fabric can also be processed using the same technique.
Example V - Space Dye Printing Color on Yarn using the Knit de Knit process
[0047] Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are extruded and intimately mixed
with the blend using the above-preferred mixture of PETG and Maleic Anhydride .The
blend of 95% olefin and 5% PETG/Maleic is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The fiber dpf is 1.8 and is cut to 1.5". Approximately
1,000 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to
that of cotton and so is the staple length.
b.) The olefin bales of staple fiber are blended together at the cotton carding process
and made into roving. The roving is made using conventional cotton equipment is spun
into a 10/1 cotton count and taken up on 3 pound packages. Approximately 1000 pounds
of yarn is produced The 10/1 grafted olefin is plied to make a 10/2 dyeable olefin.
c.) Knitted Sleeve - The 10/2 olefin yarn is knitted into a single endless sleeve.
d.) Space dye printing - Three colors are printed on the sleeve using the knit de
knit process well known in the art. This is a continuous process whereby the undyed
sleeve passes through a squeegee roller submerged in a disperse dye tank to apply
the first shade of color. The sleeve continues to a second patterned roller, which
over prints a second shade and then continues to a third roller, which over prints
a patterned third shade. Each shade contains disperse dye. The colored knitted sleeve
is exposed to steam for at least 2 minutes and preferably 4 minutes. This sets the
disperse dye to an acceptable depth of shade. The knitted sleeve has a solid background
shade of beige overprinted with deep brown and charcoal. The sleeve is then washed
and dried on the continuous range. The dryer is set at a low temperature of 200°F
and the water is flashed off. The dried sleeve is collected in a can container and
moved to the winding room.
e.) The resultant sleeve is de knitted or wound onto a yarn package using a winding
operation well know to those skilled in the art. The yarn is a pleasing beige color
with dots of dark brown and dark charcoal and is put up on 3-pound cones.
f.) The 10/2 olefin space dyed yarn is knitted on a 10 cut knitting machine. A pleasing
three-tone space dyed fabric is the result. The space dyed fabric of olefin is surprisingly
free of patterns usually associated with skein or dip dyeing of sweater yarns. The
fabric is washed with hot water in a jet dye or winch dye machine to add bulk and
to clarify the colors. This also assures the fact that the finished sweater will not
shrink when washed by the end user. The fabric is dried in a cool oven at 200°F. While
it is not necessary to wash the fabric, it is worth the extra step to make the fabric
shrink proof.
g.) The space dyed sweater fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel. It is
30% lighter in weight than a cotton sweater made to the same specifications. This
is because the olefin specific gravity is .91 vs 1.38 for cotton or cotton polyester.
This novel sweater will actually float in water.
[0048] While this example uses a 10/2 yarn, it should be noted that any size dyeable olefin
that would be practical to go through the knit de knit system would be suitable. Many
pleasing color effects can be achieved and should not be limited to the example set
forth. One skilled in the art should experiment to find a pleasing result with either
spun yarn or filament yarn.
[0049] Other methods of space dye or print dyeing yarn can be used. One skilled in the art
will adjust the various machines to the specifications that I outlined above. Warp
printing or package impregnation are two other common methods use to space dye yarns.
[0050] There are numerous sizes of yarns used to make fabrics. Spun yarns are usually made
into 18's, 20's, 24's, 28's, 30's, 36's, 40's, either plied or in single form. Continuous
filament yarn is usually made into 20/1, 70/1, 100/1, 150/1, 200/1 300/1, 500/1 or
1000/1. These are common sizes of yarns that are used to make woven, or knit fabrics.
It should be understood that any size yarn or staple fiber could be made dyeable using
the preferred mixture of the invention. From these yarns dyeable woven, non-woven
or knitted fabrics of all types and descriptions will be made.
[0051] It should also be noted that there are continuous filament machines that extrude
more than one color using multiple extruders to feed the spinneret. When a dye enhancer
mix is introduced instead of pigment at differing percentage mixes into each extruder
the result will be a continuous filament yarn that will accept various tones of a
shade from a single dyebath.
Example VI - Tri-Tone Filament Fabric
[0052] Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are intimately mixed and grafted
with an olefin dye enhancement blend described above. This machine has three extruders
that will separately feed a single spinneret. Barmag, Plantex, Rieter make such machines.
One extruder is fed a mix of 95% olefin and 5% Dye enhancer, another is fed 97% olefin
and 3% dye enhancer, and the third is fed 99% olefin and 1 % dye enhancer. A single
white yarn with a dpf of 5.4 consisting of three separate levels of dye affinity is
taken up on three-pound packages.
b.) The yarn at this stage has to be drawn and textured. The yarn is drawn 3:0 and
false twist textured on conventional draw twisting machinery known to those skilled
in the art. The result is a continuous filament yarn having 300 ends of 1.8 dpf. One
third of the yarn has a 5% additive, one third has 3% additive and one third has a
1 % additive.
c.) The yarn is knitted on a 30" rib knitting machine. The tubular cloth produced
is a white greige tube, which is shipped to the dye house.
d.) The tube is dyed with a .005% owg disperse dye. The surprising result is a dyed
fabric that simulates a tweed fabric having a deep, medium and a light blue tone.
1/3 of the yarn accepted one level of disperse dye, 1/3 of the yarn accepted a second
level of disperse dye, and 1/3 of the yarn accepted a third level of disperse dye.
e.) The fabric is opened, dried at a low temperature of 200°F and rolled for shipment.
f.) The fabric is cut and sewn into a full-fashioned ribbed spring coat with dress
buttons. One skilled in the art would vary both the size of the extrusion and the
grafted disperse dyeable compound to achieve the effect that they desire.
[0053] Variations would be for one skilled in the art to knit a dyeable tri-tone yarn with
a dyeable single tone yarn. When the fabric is dyed the fabric would have stripes
of solid tones with stripes of tri-tones. This is just an example and should serve
to show that many variations are now made possible using this invention. It would
be desirable to feed two extruders with additive while the third produces an undyeable
portion. When subjected to a disperse dye bath of terisil blue, two ends will dye
blue while the third end will remain white.
[0054] A fabric containing tri-tone yarns would be ideal to space dye or print, as the printed
yarn would dye into separate tones within tones at each strike of color letdown. Of
course one skilled in the art should not be limited but should be guided by the above
examples.
[0055] This invention enables the yarn spinner, the fabric maker and the dyer to create
novel lightweight colored fabrics. It enables a fabric to be held until the last moment
before dyeing and shipping to be manufactured in shades that match the current time
of year and season.
Example VII - Woven Fabric of Olefin
[0056] Olefin yarn is made according to the invention. It is enhanced to accept a deep solid
shade: of disperse dye. The size is 24/1 spun on the cotton spinning system taken
up on three-pound cones. It contains a dyeable graft of 5% owg.
[0057] The appropriate multiple ends are slashed and taken up on a weaving beam. The beam
is set to feed a simple box loom.
[0058] Olefin yarn made according to the invention containing 2.5% dyeable graft is made
to feed the weft insertion on the box loom. The size is 24/1 spun on the cotton spinning
system. A simple over and under woven fabric 60" wide is produced. By composition,
one half of the yarn contains a 5% dye enhancer made according to the invention and
one half contains a yarn that has a 2.5% dye enhancer made according to the invention.
[0059] The woven greige cloth is dyed in a jet dyer set at 250°F with a Terasil Blue disperse
dye using .005% on the weight of the goods.
[0060] The warp or beamed yarn dyes a deep shade of blue and the weft yarn dyes to a medium
shade of blue. The fabric is a two-tone tweed color.
[0061] The fabric is dried in a relatively cool oven at 200°F to keep the temperature below
the melt temperature of olefin.
[0062] The fabric is tentered or held in a stretched position while it passes through drying
oven. This "sets" the fabric so that it will not shrink in any further processing
at a later time.
[0063] The fabric is cut and sewn into a ladies jacket and skirt. When combined the garment
is a ladies suit made from 100% olefin fabric. This suit is easy care washable, stain
resistant, and lightweight. It is 38% lighter than a similar suit made from polyester
or wool/blends.
[0064] The above is an example. Using this invention, one skilled in the art could make
many types of woven dyeable fabrics for use in the apparel or home furnishings industry.
Patterns such as bird's eye, jacquard, twill or prints are some of the possibilities.
Each will be lightweight, stain resistant, and able to be disperse dyed to any shade
that the market will demand.
Example VIII - Sheath- Core Filaments or Yarn
[0065] In
US Patent No. 6,136,436 Kennedy et.al there is disclosed a method of manufacturing a sheath core continuous
filament fiber or yarn. I will incorporate this process into this invention with the
following addition:
[0066] The invention No. 6,136,436 claims a sheath of nylon or polyester on a core of olefin.
In this example I use a core and sheath of olefin. The outer sheath comprises 10%
to 70% olefin grafted with the dye enhance of amorphous PETG. The core is 100% olefin.
[0067] A.fabric is knitted or woven with one or more yarns containing differing dye levels.
The fabric is dyed as per the examples above. Great cost savings result because the
sheath comprises only 10% to 70% of the total composition. One skilled in the art
would vary the percentages of the sheath and the dye enhancer to achieve the effect
desired.
[0068] A variation of the above is to use a sheath of non-dyeable olefin and a core of dyeable
olefin. The result is a yarn with a clear outer shell with color in the core. One
skilled in the art can manipulate this yarn or fiber to create the effect desired.
Example IX - Fabric knitted or Woven using Dyeable Olefin Blended with Polyester
[0069] A novel and surprising effect is achieved when blending polyester and dyeable olefin
fiber to make yarn. The resultant yarn has an outer cover consisting mostly of polyester
and a core mostly of dyeable olefin. There is minor crossover in both the sheath and
core.
[0070] Olefin fiber is made according to the invention. The fiber is enhanced with the additive
of this invention to accept a solid shade of disperse dye
- a.) Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are extruded and intimately mixed
with the blend using the invention's preferred mixture of PETG and Maleic Anhydride.
The blend of 95% olefin and 5% PETG/Maleic is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The fiber dpf is 1.8 and is cut to 1.5". Approximately
650 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to that
of cotton and so is the staple length.
- b.) Dye enhanced olefin staple fibers are blended together with polyester staple fibers
having a 1.35 denier per filament cut to a 1.5" staple length at the cotton carding
process and made into an intimate blend of roving containing 65% dyeable olefin and
35% polyester. The roving is made using conventional cotton equipment and is ring
spun into a 28/1 cotton count then taken up on 3-pound packages.
- c.) Approximate 1000 pounds of a unique yarn is produced. The heavier polyester having
a specific gravity of 1.38 migrates to the outside of the yarn due to centrifugal
force and becomes a sheath surrounding the lighter weight olefin which remains mostly
in the core.
- d.) The yarn is twist plied into a 28/2 ply yarn. Both ends contain 65% dyeable olefin
and 35% polyester.
- e.) This yarn is then converted to a woven greige cloth on a conventional box loom
using 40 ends per inch in the warp and 40 ends per inch in the fill. The fabric is
woven to 67" width.
- f.) The greige goods fabric is dyed in a conventional jet-dyeing machine ordinarily
used to dye polyester. The temperature is kept at 250°F to avoid damage to the olefin.
A disperse dye Terasil Blue BRL at .005% owg is used with standard dye dispersion
chemicals and water. The resultant woven fabric is a novel and pleasing bright shade
of deep blue. The fabric is dried in a relatively cool oven. The temperature is kept
below the melt temperature of olefin but is elevated to 255°F as the core of olefin
is shielded by the sheath of polyester. The water flashes off leaving a dry bright
fabric, which is rolled and wrapped for shipment. Drying time is greatly reduced in
comparison to a cotton or cotton polyester blend because the olefin only holds limited
amounts of water and only 35% of the fabric is polyester.
- g.) A novel result is a fabric that shrinks in with to 61.5" after finishing. The
fabric is then stable and does not shrink more than 1% after washing. This effect
makes the fabric a wash and wear easy care fabric.
- h.) The woven dyed fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel. It is at least
20% lighter in weight than a polyester garment made to the same specifications. This
is because the polyester/olefin specific gravity is 1.07 Vs 1.38 for polyester. The
fabric has the soft feel of cotton yet is substantially lighter in weight. It is understood
by one skilled in the art that different weight fabrics using various sizes of yarn
can be produced in the same manner. In addition the yarn can be used to knit fabric
using conventional knitting machines.
[0071] Woven, knitted or non-woven fabrics can be produced using this blend.
[0072] The advantages of a fabric and yarn made with a blend of polyester and dyeable olefin
are as follows:
- 1.) The weaving, knitting, and dying process is fully developed in all parts of the
world.
- 2.) Deeper dyeing polyester can be used as the sheath.
- 3.) Fabrics can be piece dyed or printed using conventional equipment.
- 4.) Sublimation Printing using heat transfer process can be used.
- 5.) Fabric is lighter in weight than 100% polyester or 100% cotton or a blend of both.
- 6.) Permanent press is easily implemented.
- 7.) Fabric is washable and line or machine dry-able.
- 8.) Use of micro denier polyester creates a soft fabric.
- 9.) The fabric will sew on any conventional sewing machine.
- 10.) The dyed fabric will not shrink more than 1-5%.
Example X - Fabric Woven or knitted using Dyeable Olefin Blended with Nylon
[0073] A novel and surprising effect is achieved when blending Nylon and dyeable olefin
fiber to make yarn. The resultant yarn has an outer cover consisting mostly of nylon
and a core mostly of dyeable olefin. There is minor crossover in both the sheath and
core. The resultant yarn has a sheath mostly of Nylon and a core mostly of dyeable
olefin.
[0074] Olefin fiber is made according to the invention. The fiber is enhanced to accept
a solid shade of disperse dye.
a.) Pellets of olefin with a Melt Flow Index of 8-22 are extruded and intimately mixed
with the blend using the above-preferred mixture of PETG and Maleic Anhydride. The
blend of 95% olefin and 5% PETG/Maleic is extruded into a staple mass using conventional
staple extrusion equipment. The fiber dpf is 1.8 and is cut to 1.5". Approximately
650 pounds of staple are produced and baled. The denier per filament is close to that
of cotton and so is the staple length.
b.) Dye enhanced olefin staple fibers are blended together with Nylon staple fibers
having a 1.35 denier per filament cut to a 1.5" staple length at the cotton carding
process and made into an intimate blend of roving containing 65% dyeable olefin and
35% Nylon. The roving made using conventional cotton equipment is ring spun into a
28/1 cotton count and the yarn is taken up on 3-pound packages.
c.) Approximate 1000 pounds of a unique yarn is produced. The heavier Nylon having
a specific gravity of 1.14 migrates to the outside of the yarn due to centrifugal
force and becomes a sheath surrounding the lighter weight olefin which remains mostly
in the core.
c.) The yarn is twist plied into a 28/2 ply yarn.
c.) This yarn is then converted to a woven greige cloth on a conventional box loom
using 40 ends per inch in the warp and 40 ends per inch in the fill. The fabric is
woven to 67" width.
d.) The greige goods fabric is dyed in a conventional jet-dyeing machine ordinarily
used to dye fabric. The temperature is kept at 250°F to avoid damage to the olefin.
A disperse dye Terasil Blue BRL at .005% owg is used with standard dye dispersion
chemicals and water. The resultant woven fabric is a novel and pleasing bright shade
of deep blue. The fabric is dried in a relatively cool oven. The temperature is kept
below the melt temperature of olefin but is elevated to 255°F as the core of olefin
is shielded by the sheath of Nylon. The water flashes off leaving a dry bright fabric,
which is rolled and wrapped for shipment. Drying time is greatly reduced in comparison
to a cotton or cotton polyester blend because the olefin only holds limited amounts
of water and only 35% of the fabric is nylon.
e.) When an acid dye is used to dye the fabric only the nylon will dye. If a disperse
dye and an acid dye is used then the nylon can be dyed one shade while the olefin
will dye to another creating a distinct heather effect. A novel result is a fabric
that shrinks in with to 61.5" after finishing. The fabric is then stable and does
not shrink more than 1-5% after washing. This effect makes the fabric a wash and wear
easy care fabric.
f.) The woven dyed fabric is cut and sewn and is surprisingly novel. It is at least
20% lighter in weight than a cotton garment made to the same specifications. This
is because the Nylon/olefin specific gravity is .99 Vs 1.38 for cotton The fabric
has the soft feel of cotton yet is substantially lighter in weight. One skilled in
the art understands that different weight fabrics using various sizes of yarn can
be produced in the same manner.
[0075] Woven, knitted or non-woven fabrics can be produced using this blend. Nylon is very
easy to dye using an aqueous dye system. The fabrics made of nylon and olefin blends
will print using any acid system commonly used to dye nylon or silk.
[0076] In addition, the fabric can be printed using any aqueous dye system commonly used
to print nylon, silk or polyester.
[0077] The advantages of a fabric and yarn made with a blend of Nylon and dyeable olefin
are as follows:
- 1.) The weaving, knitting, and dying process is fully developed in all parts of the
world.
- 2.) Fabrics can be piece dyed using conventional equipment.
- 3.) Fabrics can be piece dyed using nylon dye methods.
- 4.) Deeper dyeing Nylon can be used as the sheath.
- 5.) Cationic dyeing nylon can be used as the sheath.
- 6.) Printing using any aqueous systems can be accomplished.
- 7.) Fabric is lighter in weight that 100% Nylon, 100% cotton or blend of Polyester/Cotton.
- 8.) Fabric is washable and line or machine dryable.
- 9.) Use of micro denier Nylon creates a soft fabric.
- 10.) The fabric will sew on any conventional sewing machine.