[0001] The present invention relates to a method of knitting a warp knitted fabric.
[0002] Each of a plurality of jacquard guides provided in a jacquard bar can be displaced
independently in the left-and-right direction during knitting. Accordingly, it is
possible to make a partial change in a basic texture. For example, in the knitting
of a closed-stitch dembigh texture as a basic texture illustrated in (1) of FIG. 14,
a part of jacquard guides may be displaced at the time of underlapping, so that textures
in which changes are made may be obtained as illustrated in (2) to (4) of FIG. 14.
Also, in the knitting of a closed-stitch dembigh texture as a basic texture illustrated
in (1) of FIG. 15, a part of jacquard guides may be displaced at the time of overlapping,
so that textures in which changes are made may be obtained as illustrated in (2) to
(4) of FIG. 15. Also, "H" in the drawing indicates that the position of a jacquard
guide is set as the same position (a basic texture knitting position) as that at the
time of knitting of a basic texture, and "T" indicates that the position of a jacquard
guide is displaced to the left of the basic texture knitting position.
[0003] As a warp knitting method using this, there is known a knitting method by a single
raschel machine described in
Kogi No. 2000-3816 of Journal of Technical Disclosure of Japan Institute of Invention and Innovation.
In this method, a jacquard guide may be displaced from a basic texture knitting position
at the time of both overlapping and underlapping. Then, all jacquard guides may be
operated to knit a basic texture while some jacquard guides may be displaced either
or both of at the time of overlapping or/and underlapping, thereby making a change
in the basic texture. Also, in this method, knitting is performed using a single integrated
jacquard bar (a piezo acquard reed) and a plurality of ground guide bars. Here, the
integrated jacquard bar refers to one including a pair of two half-gauge jacquard
bars, and provided with a full-gauge needle as a whole.
[0004] However, in this method, there is a limitation in a variation of a knitted fabric
that can be knitted. For example, by an integrated acquard bar, only a partial area
within the entire texture may be a net texture, and the other area may be a texture
with no hole. In contrast, by a ground guide bar, the entire area becomes one texture.
Therefore, in order to make a net form in a partial area of a knitted fabric in which
the texture by the integrated acquard bar and the texture by the ground guide bar
are superimposed, the entire texture by the ground guide bar needs to be a net texture
and its positions of the holes need to match with the positions of the holes of the
net texture by the integrated acquard bar, or the entire texture by the ground guide
bar needs to be a chain stitch texture. However, in doing so, in a knitted fabric
in which the texture by the integrated acquard bar and the texture by the ground guide
bar are superimposed, a texture of an area other than a net-like area is limited,
so that the appearance of this area is limited. Also, even when a rubber yarn is allowed
to pass through the ground guide bar in order to obtain a stretchable knitted fabric,
in a case where the texture by the ground guide bar is a chain stitch texture, the
knitted fabric has stretchability only in the course direction.
[0005] Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a method of knitting
a warp knitted fabric which hardly has such limitations and allows a knitted fabric
having more variations to be knitted.
[0006] The method of knitting a warp knitted fabric according to an embodiment includes
performing single knitting using two front and rear integrated jacquard bars which
are lined up and each of which has a full gauge in which two half-gauge jacquard bars
are paired, and displacing a jacquard guide included in each of the jacquard bars
by allowing a jacquard mechanism of a selected gauge position to act at a time of
selected lapping during the single knitting.
[0007] According to the method of knitting a warp knitted fabric according to the embodiment
having the above characteristics, a knitted fabric with many variations may be knitted.
[0008] Embodiments of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying
drawings, in which:
FIG. 1 is a front view of a warp knitting machine 1;
FIG. 2 is a view illustrating an array of integrated jacquard bars PJB1 and PJB2;
FIG. 3 is a front view of a jacquard guide 20j;
FIG. 4 is a view illustrating an array of guide bars in an array example (A);
FIG. 5 is a view illustrating an array of guide bars in an array example (B);
FIG. 6 is a view illustrating a closed-stitch dembigh texture, and a changed texture
obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the closed-stitch dembigh texture
in the present embodiment;
FIG. 7 is a view illustrating an opened-stitch dembigh texture, and a changed texture
obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the opened-stitch dembigh texture
in the present embodiment;
FIG. 8 is a view illustrating an opened-stitch chain texture, and a changed texture
obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the opened-stitch chain texture in
the present embodiment;
FIG. 9 is a view illustrating a two-needle underlap insertion texture, and a changed
texture obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the two-needle underlap insertion
texture in the present embodiment;
FIG. 10 is a view illustrating a one-needle underlap insertion texture, and a changed
texture obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the one-needle underlap insertion
texture in the present embodiment;
FIG. 11 is a view illustrating a closed-stitch reversed dembigh texture, and a changed
texture obtained by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the closed-stitch reversed
dembigh texture in the present embodiment;
FIG. 12 is a view illustrating a counter wrapping texture, and a changed texture obtained
by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the counter wrapping texture in the present
embodiment;
FIG. 13 is a view illustrating a counter wrapping texture, and a changed texture obtained
by an action of a jacquard mechanism on the counter wrapping texture in the present
embodiment;
FIG. 14 is a view illustrating a closed-stitch dembigh texture, and a texture obtained
by displacing jacquard guides at the time of underlapping; and
FIG. 15 is a view illustrating a closed-stitch dembigh texture, and a texture obtained
by displacing jacquard guides at the time of overlapping.
[0009] Embodiments will be described with reference to drawings. Also, the following embodiments
are illustrative, and the scope of the invention is not limited thereto. Various omissions,
substitutions, and changes can be made to the following embodiments, without departing
from the spirit of the invention.
[0010] An expression of a "front-and-rear" direction is used in the following description,
in which a swing-in direction is rearward and a swing-out direction is forward. Also,
"left-and-right" is an expression when a knitting machine is seen from the front side.
(1) Structure of Warp Knitting Machine
[0011] A warp knitting machine used for performing a method of knitting a warp knitted fabric
according to the present embodiment will be exemplified.
[0012] A warp knitting machine 1 in FIG. 1 is a single raschel machine that performs knitting
using needles 22 arranged in a row in the left-and-right direction. As illustrated
in FIG. 1, the warp knitting machine 1 includes a knitting machine 2 that performs
knitting, a yarn supply unit 3 configured to supply yarns to the knitting machine
2, a patterning unit 4 configured to operate guides (reeds) 20 of the knitting machine
2, a driving unit 5 configured to operate the needles 22 of the knitting machine 2,
a winding unit 6 configured to wind a knitted fabric knitted by the knitting machine
2, and a tension device 7 provided between the knitting machine 2 and the yarn supply
unit 3 and configured to uniformly maintain a tension of yarns to the knitting machine
2.
[0013] The knitting machine 2 includes a number of needles 22 arranged in a row. These needles
22 are simultaneously moved up and down by the driving unit 5. Also, the knitting
machine 2 includes a guide bar 21. For the sake of simplicity, only one guide bar
21 is illustrated in FIG. 1, but in actuality, a plurality of guide bars are provided.
In one guide bar 21, a number of guides 20 are provided to be arranged in a row. The
guide bar 21 is moved in the left and right directions by the patterning unit 4. The
knitting machine 2 further includes a trick plate 23 provided in front of the needles
22, or a stitch comb configured to press the knitted fabric to the trick plate 23
side when the needles 22 are raised.
[0014] The yarn supply unit 3 may be any one capable of supplying yarns to the knitting
machine 2, but its detailed structure is not limited. As an example of the yarn supply
unit 3, one including a beam 30 on which yarns are wound, and a device configured
to feed the yarns from the beam 30 may be exemplified. As such a device, a so-called
weight-type passive feeding device that rotates the beam 30 in a yarn feeding direction,
and adjusts the rotation speed of the beam 30 by braking in the opposite direction
to the rotation direction by a weight hung at one end of the beam 30, or a computer
device-type active feeding device that controls the rotation speed of the beam 30
by a computer may be exemplified.
[0015] The patterning unit 4 is preferably electronically controlled. Specifically, the
patterning unit 4 includes a rod 40 connected to one end of the guide bar 21 and extending
in the left-and-right direction, a moving device 41, such as a linear motor or a ball
screw, configured to move the rod 40 in the left-and-right direction, and an electronic
control device 42 that controls the moving device 41. When an operation instruction
is input to the electronic control device 42, the moving device 41 is operated according
to the operation instruction, thereby moving the rod 40 and the guide bar 21 in the
left-and-right direction.
[0016] However, the structure of the patterning unit 4 is not limited thereto. For example,
the patterning unit 4 may include a rotatable chain drum and a chain link that is
provided to make one revolution around the outer periphery of the chain drum. In this
case, the rod 40 moves in the left-and-right direction by being pushed according to
a change of the chain number of the chain link (the height in the radial outward direction
of the chain drum).
[0017] The driving unit 5 may be any one capable of moving up and down the needles 22, but
its detailed structure is not limited. Generally, the driving unit 5 includes a rotatable
shaft 50, a rotating device 51, such as a motor, configured to rotate the shaft 50,
and a cam 52 fixed to the shaft 50. When the cam 52 is rotated by the rotation of
the shaft 50, the needles 22 above the cam 52 are moved up and down by being pushed
by the cam 52.
(2) Array of Guides and Guide Bars of Warp Knitting Machine 1
[0018] As illustrated in FIG. 2, in the knitting machine 2 of the warp knitting machine
1 according to the present embodiment, a front integrated jacquard bar PJB1 and a
rear integrated jacquard bar PJB2 are provided in this order from the front side.
Here, the integrated jacquard bar includes two half-gauge jacquard bars JB (each of
the half-gauge jacquard bars has a half set of jacquard guides 20j), and thus has
a full gauge as a whole (which has a full set of jacquard guides 20j).
[0019] Each of these half-gauge jacquard bars JB performs movement for knitting of a basic
texture. Then, all the plurality of jacquard guides 20j provided in the half-gauge
jacquard bars JB perform the same movements according to the movement of the jacquard
bars JB.
[0020] In addition, each of these jacquard guides 20j is configured to be independently
displaced by a jacquard mechanism. Thus, the plurality of jacquard guides 20j may
perform different movements according to gauge positions.
[0021] A jacquard mechanism is a mechanism configured to displace the jacquard guide 20j
from a position for knitting a basic texture. An example of such a mechanism will
be described with reference to FIG. 3. In the jacquard guide 20j illustrated in FIG.
3, a distal end portion 11 having a hole 10 through which yarns pass is provided at
the distal end of an insulator 12. At the left and right sides of the insulator 12,
piezoelectric elements 13 made of a ceramic are provided. When a voltage is applied
to one of the piezoelectric elements 13, the piezoelectric element 13 is deformed
and the insulator 12 is bent. As a result, the distal end portion 11 is moved in the
left-and-right direction, and the position of the hole 10 is moved in the left-and-right
direction. In this manner, the jacquard guide 20j is bent. It is assumed that the
movement amount of the hole 10 in the left-and-right direction is a bending amount
or a displacement amount of the jacquard guide 20j. In a state where a voltage is
not applied to the piezoelectric element 13, the jacquard guide 20j is not bent.
[0022] When the knitting is stopped in a state where the jacquard guide 20j is not bent,
the jacquard guide 20j is positioned just above the needles 22. During knitting of
a basic texture, the jacquard guide 20j is bent to the right by a distance of half
of 1G (a distance between adjacent needles 22). The state where a basic texture is
being knitted is set as a state where the jacquard mechanism does not act. When the
jacquard mechanism acts, the jacquard guide 20j is bent to the left, and is displaced
to the left by a distance of 1G from the position where the basic texture is being
knitted. The jacquard mechanism may be allowed to act either or both of at the time
of overlapping and underlapping.
[0023] In the knitting machine, in addition to the front integrated acquard bar PJB1 and
the rear integrated jacquard bar PJB2, a normal guide bar may be provided. In the
normal guide bar, all the plurality of guides provided in the guide bar perform the
same movement along with the movement of the guide bar, and each of the guides is
not independently displaced in the left-and-right direction. For example, the normal
guide bar may be provided behind the rear integrated jacquard bar PJB2, or the normal
guide bar may be provided in front of the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1. The
guide bars may be provided both in front of the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1
and behind the rear integrated jacquard bar PJB2.
[0024] An exemplary array in which the normal guide bar is provided behind the rear integrated
jacquard bar PJB2 is set as an array example (A), and is illustrated in FIG. 4. In
the array example (A), the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1, the rear integrated
jacquard bar PJB2, a guide bar GB5 as a normal guide bar, and a guide bar GB6 as a
normal guide bar are lined up in order from the front side. Here, the front integrated
jacquard bar PJB1 includes a jacquard bar JB1 and a jacquard bar JB2, and the rear
integrated jacquard bar PJB2 includes a jacquard bar JB3 and a jacquard bar JB4. Then,
each of the jacquard bars JB1 to JB4 includes a half set of jacquard guides 20j. Then,
the jacquard bar JB1 and the jacquard bar JB2 have a full set of jacquard guides 20j,
and the jacquard bar JB3 and the jacquard bar JB4 have a full set of jacquard guides
20j.
[0025] Also, an exemplary array in which the normal guide bars 21 are provided both in front
of the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1 and behind the rear integrated jacquard
bar PJB2 is set as an array example (B), and is illustrated in FIG. 5. In the array
example (B), a guide bar GB1 as a normal guide bar, a front integrated jacquard bar
PJB1, a rear integrated jacquard bar PJB2, and a guide bar GB6 as a normal guide bar
are lined up in order from the front side. The front integrated jacquard bar PJB1
includes a jacquard bar JB2 and a jacquard bar JB3, and the rear integrated jacquard
bar PJB2 includes a jacquard bar JB4 and a jacquard bar JB5. Then, each of the jacquard
bars JB2 to JB5 includes a half set of jacquard guides 20j. Then, the jacquard bar
JB2 and the jacquard bar JB3 have a full set of jacquard guides 20j, and the jacquard
bar JB4 and the jacquard bar JB5 have a full set of jacquard guides 20j.
[0026] Also, in the embodiment described above, a fall plate is not provided in the middle
of the array of the guide bars.
(3) Knitting Method
[0027] When knitting is performed using two integrated jacquard bars lined up in the front-and-rear
direction, a jacquard mechanism of a jacquard guide of a selected gauge position is
allowed to act so that the jacquard guide may be displaced. Here, there is overlapping
or underlapping as lapping performed by the jacquard guide at each gauge position.
It is possible to select any lapping of these at which the jacquard mechanism is allowed
to act. The jacquard mechanism may be allowed to act at the time of both overlapping
and underlapping. In this manner, the gauge position and lapping may be selected so
that the jacquard mechanism is allowed to act. Then, the jacquard guide at the gauge
position may be displaced at the time of the selected lapping. As a result, a change
may be added to a basic texture obtained by two integrated jacquard bars.
(3-1) Example of Change in Texture by Action of Jacquard Mechanism
[0028] First, a change in a texture knitted by a jacquard guide due to the action of a jacquard
mechanism will be exemplified. Also, in the following example described below, a change
is made to a texture repeated at an interval of two knitting courses by the action
of a jacquard mechanism, thereby obtaining a texture repeated at the same interval
of two knitting courses. However, a change may be made to a texture repeated at an
interval of three or more knitting courses, and a change may be made to a texture
repeated at an interval of two knitting courses, thereby obtaining a texture repeated
at an interval of three or more knitting courses.
[0029] FIG. 6 illustrates change examples of a texture by a jacquard guide, at an interval
of two knitting courses. "H" in the drawing indicates that a jacquard mechanism is
not allowed to act. In this case, a jacquard guide is located at the same position
as that during knitting of a basic texture. "T" in the drawing indicates that a jacquard
mechanism is allowed to act. In this case, the jacquard guide is displaced to the
left from the position for knitting the basic texture. "T" and "H" are described at
upper and lower ends of one needle. Meanwhile, "T" or "H" at the upper end indicates
that a jacquard mechanism is allowed or not allowed to act at the time of overlapping,
and "T" or "H" at the lower end indicates that a jacquard mechanism is allowed or
not allowed to act at the time of underlapping. In (1) of FIG. 6, a closed-stitch
dembigh texture composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-2// as a basic texture is illustrated,
and by the action of the jacquard mechanism, 15 kinds of changes illustrated in (2)
to (16) may be made to the basic texture. For example, the texture in (2) of FIG.
6 is a texture knitted by no action of a jacquard mechanism at the time of underlapping
and overlapping at the first course, and action of the jacquard mechanism at the time
of underlapping and overlapping at the second course.
[0030] FIGS. 7 to 11 illustrate other change examples of a texture by jacquard guides. The
basic texture in FIG. 7 is an opened-stitch dembigh texture illustrated in (1) of
FIG. 7, and is composed of repetition units of 0-1/2-1//. The basic texture in FIG.
8 is an opened-stitch chain texture illustrated in (1) of FIG. 8, and is composed
of repetition units of 0-1/1-0//. The basic texture in FIG. 9 is a two-needle underlap
insertion texture illustrated in (1) of FIG. 9, and is composed of repetition units
of 0-0/2-2//. The basic texture in FIG. 10 is a one-needle underlap insertion texture
illustrated in (1) of FIG. 10, and is composed of repetition units of 0-0/1-1//. The
basic texture in FIG. 11 is a closed-stitch reversed dembigh texture (a texture in
which an underlap is placed in a reverse direction to the closed-stitch dembigh texture
in (1) of FIG. 6) illustrated in (1) of FIG. 11, and is composed of repetition units
of 1-2/1-0//. To each of the basic textures of FIGS. 7 to 11, 15 kinds of changes
may be made in the same manner as illustrated in FIG. 6. Meanwhile, in each of FIGS.
7 to 11, only four representative change examples are illustrated in (2) to (5).
(3-2) Example of Knitting by One Integrated Jacquard Bar
[0031] An integrated jacquard bar includes two half-gauge jacquard bars, but these may perform
the same movements and knit the same textures. Thus, by the integrated jacquard bar,
the textures exemplified in FIGS. 6 to 11 may be knitted.
[0032] Also, since the integrated jacquard bar includes two half-gauge jacquard bars, for
example, any one among textures in FIGS. 6 to 11 may be knitted by one half-gauge
jacquard bar, a separate texture among textures in FIGS. 6 to 11 may be knitted by
the other half-gauge jacquard bar, and these may be superimposed to obtain a texture
knitted by one integrated jacquard bar.
[0033] For example, the texture in FIG. 12 is an example of a texture obtained by one integrated
jacquard bar. The basic texture illustrated in (1) of FIG. 12 is a counter wrapping
texture obtained by superimposing a closed-stitch dembigh texture in (1) of FIG. 6
knitted by one half-gauge jacquard bar on a closed-stitch reversed dembigh texture
knitted by the other half-gauge jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 11. On
this basic texture, a jacquard mechanism may be allowed to act, thereby making changes
exemplified in (2) to (5).
[0034] In (1) to (4) of FIG. 13, a wider texture is illustrated. In (1) of FIG. 13, a counter
wrapping texture as a basic texture in (1) of FIG. 12 is illustrated in a wide range.
The textures in (2) to (4) of FIG. 13 are examples obtained by changing the texture
in (1) of FIG. 13 by the action of a jacquard mechanism, in which the basic texture
indicated by broken line in a part of the drawing is displaced in the arrow direction.
The texture in (2) of FIG. 13 is a raschel net texture. The texture in (3) of FIG.
13 is a texture to become a thick cloth according to two-gauge underlap, and may be
combined with, for example, a dembigh texture of a thin cloth to draw a pattern in
the knitted fabric. The texture in (4) of FIG. 13 has a high contraction effect. In
this manner, when the jacquard mechanism is allowed to act on the basic texture in
(1) of FIG. 13, various textures may be made. Also, since in the textures exemplified
in (2) to (4) of FIG. 13, loops are formed at all needle positions, textures superimposed
thereon do not need to form loops at all needle positions and may become various textures.
(3-3) Example of Knitting by Two Integrated Jacquard Bars
[0035] The warp knitting machine 1 according to the present embodiment is provided with
two integrated jacquard bars, in which for example, any one among textures in FIGS.
6 to 13 may be knitted by one integrated jacquard bar, another one among the textures
in FIGS. 6 to 13 may be knitted by the other integrated jacquard bar, and these may
be superimposed. Hereinafter, a texture knitted by two integrated jacquard bars lined
up in the front-and-rear direction will be exemplified.
[0036] First, as a basic texture, the closed-stitch dembigh texture knitted by each of the
two front and rear integrated jacquard bars, as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 6, is exemplified.
When the jacquard mechanism is allowed to act during the knitting of the basic texture,
various textures may be knitted. For example, a dembigh texture is knitted by a front
integrated jacquard bar, and a texture composed of a partially thick or thin cloth
is knitted by the action of the jacquard mechanism by a rear integrated jacquard bar.
Accordingly, a thin or thick portion is formed on the knitted fabric obtained by superimposing
these textures on each other, thereby forming a pattern due to a thickness difference.
[0037] Then, as basic textures, the closed-stitch dembigh texture knitted by the front integrated
jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 6, and the closed-stitch reversed dembigh
texture knitted by the rear integrated jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG.
11 are exemplified. In these textures, since a sinker loop formed by the front integrated
jacquard bar and a sinker loop formed by the rear integrated jacquard bar intersect
each other, a contraction effect occurs in the knitted fabric. When the jacquard mechanism
is allowed to act during the knitting of the basic texture, various textures may be
knitted as described above. The knitted fabric of the texture has a contraction effect.
[0038] Then, as a basic texture, the counter wrapping texture knitted by each of the front
and rear integrated jacquard bars as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 12 and (1) of FIG.
13, is exemplified. When the jacquard mechanism is allowed to act during the knitting
of the counter wrapping texture, various textures may be knitted. For example, a portion
("A portion") of a texture knitted by the integrated jacquard bar becomes a raschel
net texture as illustrated in (2) of FIG. 13. Then, textures each partially including
a raschel net texture are knitted by the two integrated jacquard bars, respectively,
and the raschel net textures are superimposed while their hole positions are aligned.
In this manner, a knitted fabric in which a superimposed area of raschel net textures
is formed in a net shape may be obtained. Also, in this case, in a texture knitted
by one integrated acquard bar, a texture of a portion ("B portion") other than the
A portion is not limited. For example, between the two superimposed B portions, one
B portion may become a net texture, and the other B portion may become a texture other
than the net texture. Also, both B portions may become a texture other than the net
texture. Accordingly, an area of the knitted fabric other than a net-like partial
area may be formed as various textures, thereby achieving various appearances.
[0039] Then, as basic textures, the closed-stitch dembigh texture knitted by the front integrated
jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 6, and the counter wrapping texture knitted
by the rear integrated jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 12 and (1) of FIG.
13 are exemplified. When in the rear integrated jacquard bar, a jacquard mechanism
is allowed to act on the basic texture, for example, the raschel net texture illustrated
in (2) of FIG. 13 may be knitted. Also, when in the front integrated jacquard bar,
a jacquard mechanism is allowed to act, a texture having a pattern composed of, for
example, a thick cloth portion and a thin cloth portion may be knitted. Then, these
textures may be integrated, thereby obtaining a knitted fabric with a clear texture
pattern by the front integrated jacquard bar.
[0040] Then, as basic textures, the counter wrapping texture knitted by the front integrated
jacquard bar as illustrated in (1) of FIG. 12 and (1) of FIG. 13, and the closed-stitch
reversed dembigh texture knitted by the rear integrated jacquard bar as illustrated
in (1) of FIG. 11 are exemplified. When in the front integrated jacquard bar, a jacquard
mechanism is allowed to act on the basic texture, for example, the raschel net texture
illustrated in (2) of FIG. 13 may be knitted. Also, when in the rear integrated jacquard
bar, a jacquard mechanism is allowed to act, a texture having a pattern composed of,
for example, a thick cloth portion and a thin cloth portion may be knitted. Then,
these textures may be integrated, thereby obtaining a knitted fabric with a visible
texture pattern by the rear integrated jacquard bar. This pattern looks relatively
thin.
[0041] The knitted fabric may have many variations not only by the knitting method as described
above, but also by using different kinds of yarns passing through the two integrated
jacquard bars (i.e., four jacquard guides). The different kinds of yarns specifically
indicate that yarns are different in a raw material, a shape, a thickness, a number
of twists, or a finishing. The different kinds of yarns are different in an elasticity,
a stretchability, a flexibility, a presence or absence of glossiness, a feel, or a
stained state.
[0042] For example, yarns having different stained states at a predetermined temperature,
for example, at least polyamide and polyester are allowed to pass through four jacquard
guides, respectively, to perform knitting. Then, by staining at a predetermined temperature,
due to a difference of yarns in the stained state, a shape composed of shades of colors
may be drawn on the knitted fabric.
[0043] Also, when knitting is performed by passing a highly elastic yarn through one or
two or more of the four jacquard guides, a knitted fabric that is contracted in accordance
with the knitting method after knitting may be obtained. For example, when knitting
is performed by passing elastic yarns through the jacquard guides that perform a chain
stitch, a knitted fabric that is contracted in a course direction may be obtained.
[0044] Also, by setting the yarns passing through the two integrated jacquard bar to have
at least two or more colors, a shape caused by a color difference may be drawn on
the knitted fabric. For example, a yellow yarn is allowed to pass through the rear
integrated jacquard bar to knit a dembigh texture, a red yarn is allowed to pass through
the front integrated jacquard bar to knit a net texture having open holes, and these
may be superimposed to obtain a knitted fabric in which a yellow color is visible
below a red color. Also, for example, a yellow yarn is allowed to pass through the
rear integrated jacquard bar to knit a closed-stitch dembigh texture, a red yarn is
allowed to pass through the front integrated jacquard bar to knit a closed-stitch
dembigh texture, and these may be superimposed so that a knitted fabric with separate
colors may be knitted at a sinker loop portion in which the front side has a red color
and the rear side has a yellow color. Here, each of the rear integrated jacquard bar
and the front integrated jacquard bar has a full set of acquard guides . Thus, the
color separation is clearer as compared to that in a case where a red yarn and a yellow
yarn are allowed to pass through two half-gauge jacquard bars in one integrated jacquard
bar, respectively, to perform knitting. Meanwhile, when different colors of yarns
are allowed to pass through the four jacquard bars, respectively, to perform knitting,
a knitted fabric composed of four colors may be obtained.
[0045] When a normal guide bar is provided in addition to the front integrated jacquard
bar and the rear integrated jacquard bar, a variation of a knitted fabric is also
increased.
[0046] In the array example (A), for example, an inserting yarn may be inserted by the guide
bar GB5 or GB6, and a shape may be drawn or a border may be formed on the knitted
fabric by the inserting yarn. The example of forming the border by the inserting yarn
is described as follows. It is assumed that two pieces of clothing are knitted to
be lined up by the integrated jacquard bars PJB1 and PJB2. In this case, at any guide
bar, a disintegrated yarn by a chain stitch is provided between adjacent pieces of
clothing. Then, by the guide bar GB5 or GB6, a rubber yarn is inserted to be imposed
on the disintegrated yarn and one piece of clothing, and a rubber yarn is inserted
to be imposed on the disintegrated yarn and the other piece of clothing. That is,
two adjacent pieces of clothing are connected to each other by one disintegrated yarn
and two rubber yarns at both sides of the disintegrated yarn. Here, as the rubber
yarn, a highly stretchable yarn which may be made of, for example, polyurethane is
used. Then, after the two pieces of clothing are knitted to be lined up, and finished,
the disintegrated yarn is released. Then, the two rubber yarns are released from the
disintegrated yarn and contracted to be integrated with end portions of pieces of
clothing, respectively, at the hanging sides. In this manner, pieces of clothing are
separated from each other in a state where the edges become clean.
[0047] Also, in the array example (B), for example, an inserting yarn may be inserted by
the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1. Since the guide bar GB1 is placed in front
of the front integrated jacquard bar PJB1, when the guide bar GB1 performs a chain
stitch and forms a loop, it is possible to press the inserting yarn.
[0048] Thereafter, on the knitted fabric knitted as described above, heat-setting, washing,
drying, or other processings as necessary may be performed to finish a product such
as clothing.
(4) Effect
[0049] According to the method of knitting the warp knitted fabric according to the present
embodiment, a knitted fabric with many variations may be knitted by using a full-gauge
integrated jacquard bar including a pair of half-gauge jacquard bars, performing knitting
using two integrated jacquard bars, and selecting action/non-action of the jacquard
mechanism at the time of overlapping or underlapping.
[0050] For example, in one integrated acquard bar, half-gauge j acquard bars are paired,
and action/non-action of the jacquard mechanism may be selected at the time of overlapping
and underlapping. Thus, various changes may be made on a part of a texture knitted
by one integrated jacquard bar. Then, since knitting is performed using two integrated
jacquard bars as described above, two textures each of which is partially changed
by a jacquard mechanism may be superimposed.
[0051] Also, when a guide bar provided behind the rear integrated jacquard bar or in front
of the front integrated jacquard bar is used for knitting, a knitted fabric with more
variations may be knitted as exemplified above.
[0052] Also, when the yarns passing through the two integrated jacquard bars are set to
have at least two or more types, or the yarns passing through the two integrated jacquard
bars are set to have at least two or more colors, a knitted fabric with more variations
may be knitted as exemplified above.
[Description of Reference Numerals and Signs]
[0053]
- 1
- warp knitting machine
- 2
- knitting machine
- 3
- yarn supply unit
- 4
- patterning unit
- 5
- driving unit
- 6
- winding unit
- 7
- tension device
- 10
- hole
- 11
- distal end portion
- 12
- insulator
- 13
- piezoelectric element
- 20
- guide
- 20j
- jacquard guide
- 21
- guide bar
- 22
- needle
- 23
- trick plate
- 30
- beam
- 40
- rod
- 41
- moving device
- 42
- electronic control device
- 50
- shaft
- 51
- rotating device
- 52
- cam
- PJB1
- front integrated jacquard bar
- PJB2
- rear integrated jacquard bar
- GB
- guide bar
- JB
- jacquard bar