PROCESS FOR IMPROVING THE CHEMICAL AND/OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF A YARN OR FABRIC

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn or fabric, preferably a thin yarn or fabric made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, used at pure state or blended together

[0002] As used herein, the term weaving shall be intended to cover both warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving.

[0003] As used herein, for example:

• a thin yarn is intended to cover yarns having a yarn count ranging from 50 to 200 Nm;
• animal fibers are intended to cover fibers obtained from insects (e.g. silkworm) or from fleece (e.g. wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere, etc.);
• vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, leaves (such as ramie, bamboo, cotton, linen, etc.).

[0004] Thin yarns of the above mentioned type are known to be difficult to weave together, due to their thinness which makes them prone to breaking during weaving.

[0005] For this reason a weaving technique is known in the art, e.g. from WO 2013/057723, which includes the steps of applying a reinforcement solution comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of the yarn, crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, e.g. by exposure to UV radiation and a desizing step, for removing the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, as well as a partial and calibrated desizing step for removal of both the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof after crosslinking.

[0006] It shall be noted in this respect that chitosan and/or its derivatives are easily removed because chitosan and/or its derivatives are soluble under appropriate conditions, such removal being simply obtained by submitting the yarn or fabric to a washing step or one of the usual finishing steps, e.g. a dyeing step obtained by immersing the fibers in a suitable dyeing solution at temperatures above 60°C.

[0007] Conversely, the crosslinked chitosan and/or crosslinked chitosan derivatives generate a water-insoluble crosslinked polymer which remains permanently anchored to the fibers even after a number of successive washing steps with hot and/or soapy water or after a hot-dyeing step.

[0008] Particularly, crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof can increase cohesion thereof to the fibers of the yarns. Particularly, the crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is applied to the treated fibers in substantially undissolvable and durable fashion. The presence of this crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof can:

• impart a considerable physico-mechanical resistance to the yarn;
• provide a sanitizing, antifelting and antibacterial effect to the fibers, as well as
• substantially improving finish affinity, particularly dye and print affinity, especially to reactive dyes reacting with -OH and -NH₂ groups.

[0009] In order to obtain yarns or fabrics with fibers having both the above mentioned advantages and the initial softness, volume, gloss and lightness properties as required, the amount of such crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof on the fibers shall not exceed the amount that is strictly sufficient to obtain the required benefits. Thus, for example, any excess of such crosslinked polymer on the fibers will cause the drawback that the yarns and fabrics will exhibit a high resistance but also excessive rigidity.

[0010] Therefore, a need is felt for a partial and calibrated desizing step, for removing the crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from the fibers of the yarn or fabric.
According to the prior art, such desizing step may be:

• an enzymatic desizing step, preferably using amylase and/or cellulase enzymes, within the range of pHs, temperatures and activities specific to the enzyme and the relevant substrate or
• a chemical desizing step, e.g. using hydrolyzing acids, preferably diluted hydrochloric and/or sulfuric acid.

[0011] Concerning these desizing techniques for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked polymer resulting from crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from the fibers of the yarn or fabric, it shall be noted that they cannot be readily implemented, as preventive tests should be made for each different type of fiber to be treated. Furthermore, it shall be noted that the possibility of implementing such partial and calibrated desizing step by enzymatic or chemical procedures requires the introduction of special equipment or parts in the spinning and/or weaving lines, which are not typically provided, in other words these techniques require the provision of a special production line.

[0012] Therefore, the invention is based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn or fabric, to fulfill the above need, while obviating the above prior art drawbacks.

[0013] This problem is solved by a process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn, particularly a fine yarn, or a fabric as defined in claim 1.

[0014] In a further aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as defined in claim 15.

[0015] According to the invention, the yarn, which is preferably a fine yarn, comprises natural animal fibers and/or vegetable fibers, and/or man-made natural polymer fibers and/or man-made natural crosslinked polymer fibers, used at pure state or blended together.

Example 1

[0016] A process of the invention for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, comprises the steps of:

a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

c) sizing said yarn with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said yarn by at least partial impregnation and/or coating;

d) at least partially crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers by said sizing step c), to obtain a crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, said polymer being permanently anchored to the fibers of said yarn and

e) performing a desizing step, for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and anchored to the fibers of said yarn, from such fibers of said yarn.

[0017] Advantageously, the above mentioned desizing step e), for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is carried out by mechanical means.

[0018] The yarn obtained by the above described process steps b), c), d) and e) is a yarn having improved mechanical strength, remarkable sanitizing, antibacterial and antifelting properties and an excellent finish affinity (e.g. dye and print affinity), partial and calibrated desizing for removal of the crosslinked polymer being advantageously obtained simply and quickly by mechanical means.

Example 2

[0019] A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric or knit comprising yarns made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, comprising a step of warp-and-weft weaving of said yarns or a step of knitting of said yarns, wherein at least one or both of the warp and weft yarns, preferably the warp yarn only, used in this weaving step or a yarn used in said knitting step, is a yarn that undergoes the following process steps:

a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

c)sizing said yarn with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said yarn by at least partial impregnation and/or coating and

d) at least partially crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers by said sizing step c), to obtain a crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, said polymer being permanently anchored to the fibers of said yarn.

[0020] After said crosslinking step d), the yarn undergoes a step f) of warp-and-weft weaving of said yarns or a step of knitting of said yarns, wherein one or both of the warp and weft yarns, preferably the warp yarn only, used in this weaving step or in said knitting step, is a yarn that undergoes said process steps b), c) and d).

[0021] After said weaving or knitting step f), the fabric or knit so obtained undergo a desizing step g) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, from the fibers of the fabric or knit.

[0022] Advantageously, the above mentioned desizing step g) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.

Example 3

[0023] A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric, knit or garment comprising at least one yarnmade from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together. This process comprises the steps of:

h) providing a finished fabric, knit or garment comprising at least one yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

i) sizing said fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment by at least partial impregnation and/or coating;

l) after said sizing step i), crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said chitosan composition to obtain a crosslinked polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment and

m) after said step l) of at least partially crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said composition, performing a desizing step with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, from the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment.

[0024] Advantageously, the above mentioned desizing step m) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.

[0025] Therefore, according to the invention, in all the above described examples, the partial and calibrated desizing step (i.e. a sizing step that does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers), is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.

[0026] Advantageously, said mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces. These rigid surfaces may consist of the dent and slaying surfaces of a reed, eye holes, namely healds or Jacquard heddles, through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during weaving, bristles of a brush, and others.

[0027] These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.

[0028] According to an alternative embodiment, the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers of the yarn or fabric or knit, may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.

[0029] Advantageously, the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a step of washing the fibers or knit or during a dyeing step.

[0030] It shall be understood from the above that, with the possibility of carrying out the desizing step by mechanical means, no further processing step shall be added to those required for producing the yarn, fabric or knit, and no further special equipment shall be added to the one that is specially required for partial and calibrated desizing for removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer.

[0031] The possibility of carrying out partial and calibrated mechanical desizing for removal of the crosslinked polymer on the fibers does not exclude the possibility that such partial and calibrated desizing step may be also carried out before or after as:

• an enzymatic desizing step, preferably using amylase and/or cellulase enzymes, within the range of pHs, temperatures and activities specific to the enzyme and the relevant substrate or
• a chemical desizing step, e.g. using hydrolyzing acids, preferably diluted hydrochloric and/or sulfuric acid.

[0032] Particularly, the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step may be carried out in addition to a chemical or an enzymatic desizing step.

[0033] The partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a partial and calibrated chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, after the sizing step, the step of crosslinking the chitosan and/or its derivatives is preceded by a a step of drying the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit and the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer applied to the fibers of the yarn, fabric or knit, to thereby facilitate the later chitosan crosslinking step.

[0035] Preferably, the chitosan crosslinking step is carried out by a step of UV exposure of the fibers of the yarn, fabric, knit or garment, chemical crosslinking being also possibly provided.

[0036] Preferably, the step of sizing said finished fabric, knit or garment is carried out by foularding and/or impregnation of the finished fabric, knit or garment in the sizing solution.

[0037] Preferably, such step of sizing the fibers is carried out using a sizing solution comprising:

• low-molecular-weight chitosan;
• acid aqueous solution;
• radical photoinitiator.

[0038] Preferably, the chitosan in use has a low molecular weight, e.g. of the order of 150,000 Da. Particularly, it is a chitosan with 75÷85% degree of deacetylation; 20÷200 cps viscosity at a concentration range of 0.5÷10% w/v, preferably 0.8÷3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;

[0039] Preferably, said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5÷3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8÷2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.

[0040] Preferably, said step of sizing the fibers of the yarn, fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution is carried out with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷7 to 1÷35, preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷10 to 1÷30, more preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷16 to 1÷24.

[0041] Preferably, said step of sizing said finished fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution is carried out with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷7 to 1÷35, preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷10 to 1÷30, more preferably with a bath ratio ranging from 1÷16 to 1÷24.

[0042] Preferably, this desizing step, with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforced polymer from the fibers of said yarn, leaves said crosslinked chitosan-derived reinforcement polymer on the fibers of said yarn subjected to said sizing step, in an amount of 0.3÷9 % w/w based on the dry weight of the yarn after said sizing step.

[0043] The above disclosure is susceptible to a number of changes and variants within the inventive concept, as outlined by the annexed claims.

[0044] Thus, for example, the yarn, which is preferably a thin yarn, may also comprise a doubled yarn with a monofilament or multifilament yarn containing chitosan or be doubled with a yarn made of discontinuous fibers, containing chitosan.

Claims

1. A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, said process comprising the steps of:

a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

c) sizing said yarn with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said yarn by at least partial impregnation and/or coating;

d) at least partially crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers by said sizing step c), to obtain a crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, said polymer being permanently anchored to the fibers of said yarn and

e) performing a desizing step, for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and anchored to the fibers of said yarn, from such fibers of said yarn, characterized in that, the above mentioned desizing step e) for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is carried out by mechanical means.

2. A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric or knit comprising yarns made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, said process comprising the steps of:

a) providing a yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

c) sizing said yarn with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said yarn by at least partial impregnation and/or coating;

d) at least partially crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers by said sizing step c), to obtain a crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, said polymer being permanently anchored to the fibers of said yarn;

f) performing a step of warp-and-weft weaving of said yarns or a step of knitting of said yarns, wherein one or both of the warp and weft yarns, preferably the warp yarn only, used in this weaving step or in said knitting step, is a yarn that undergoes said process steps b), c) and d).

g) performing a desizing step, for partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, from the fibers of said fabric or knit,

characterized in that said desizing step g) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from such fibers of said yarn is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.

3. A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a fabric, knit or garment comprising at least one yarn made from natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together, said process comprising the steps of:

h) providing a finished fabric, knit or garment comprising at least one yarn made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural polymer fibers, at pure state or blended together;

b) preparing a sizing solution comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof as a reinforcement product;

i) sizing said fabric, knit or garment with said sizing solution to apply said reinforcement product comprising chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment by at least partial impregnation and/or coating;

l) crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said chitosan composition to obtain a crosslinked polymer from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment and

m) performing a desizing step, with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, from the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment,

characterized in that said desizing step m) with partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer derived from chitosan and/or derivatives thereof from the fibers of said fabric, knit or garment, is at least partially carried out by acting upon said fibers by mechanical means.

4. A process as claimed in claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein said partial and calibrated desizing step is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers.

5. A process as claimed in claim 4, as dependent on claim 1 or 2, wherein said mechanical desizing step for physically acting upon the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out on the yarn during the weaving step.

6. A process as claimed in claim 4, as dependent on claim 1 or 2, wherein said mechanical desizing step for physically acting upon the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by sliding the yarn in contact with rigid surfaces.

7. A process as claimed in claim 6, wherein said rigid surfaces consist of the surfaces of the reed dents, eye holes through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the yarn and/or the bristles of a brush.

8. A process as claimed in claim 4, as dependent on claim 2 or 3, wherein said mechanical desizing step for physically acting upon the fibers to be desized by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out on the fabric, knit or garment.

9. A process as claimed in claim 8, wherein said mechanical desizing step by abrasion and/or rubbing is carried out by brushing the fabric, knit and/or garment, or by sliding the fabric in contact with rigid surfaces.

10. A process as claimed in any of claims 1 to 9, wherein said partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers is carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers, preferably while said fibers are immersed in the bath.

11. A process as claimed in claim 10, wherein said ultrasonic treatment of the fibers is carried out at the same time as a step weaving or finishing processing step, during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath.

12. A process as claimed in any of claims 1 to 11, wherein said partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step is carried out in addition to a chemical or enzymatic desizing step.

13. A process as claimed in any of claims 10 to 11, wherein said partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step by ultrasonic treatment of the fibers upon which the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer is applied is carried out substantially at the same time as the partial and calibrated chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath.

14. A process for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn as claimed in any of claims 1 to 13 wherein said step of crosslinking the chitosan of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers is preceded by the step of drying the fibers of said yarn and the chitosan of said reinforcement product applied to the fibers of said yarn, to thereby facilitate the later chitosan crosslinking step.

15. A use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof in a process as claimed in any of claims 1 to 14 for improving the chemical and/or physical properties of a yarn.

Ansprüche

1. Verfahren zur Verbesserung der chemischen und/oder physikalischen Eigenschaften eines Garns aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt, wobei das Verfahren folgende Schritte umfasst:

a) Bereitstellen eines Garns aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt;

b) Herstellen einer Schlichtelösung, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon als ein Verstärkungsprodukt;

c) Beschlichten des Garns mit der Schlichtelösung zum Aufbringen des Verstärkungsprodukts umfassend Chitosan und/oder Derivate davon auf die Fasern des Garns durch mindestens teilweises Imprägnieren und/oder Beschichten;

d) mindestens teilweises Vernetzen des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon in dem auf die Fasern im Beschlichtungsschritt c) aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukt, um einen vernetzten Verstärkungspolymer aus dem Chitosan und/oder den Derivaten davon zu erhalten, wobei das Polymer dauerhaft an den Fasern des Garns verankert ist und

e) Ausführen des Entschlichtungsschrittes zum teilweisen und kalibrierten Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten, und an den Fasern des Garns verankerten Verstärkungspolymers von derartigen Fasern des Garns, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der oben genannte Entschlichtungsschritt e) zum teilweisen und kalibrierten Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten Verstärkungspolymers von derartigen Fasern des Garns mit mechanischen Mitteln ausgeführt wird.

2. Verfahren zur Verbesserung der chemischen und/oder physikalischen Eigenschaften eines Gewebes oder Gewirkes umfassend Garne aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt, wobei das Verfahren folgende Schritte umfasst:

a) Bereitstellen eines Garns aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt;

b) Herstellen einer Schlichtelösung, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon als ein Verstärkungsprodukt;

c) Beschlichten des Garns mit der Schlichtelösung zum Aufbringen des Verstärkungsprodukts umfassend Chitosan und/oder Derivate davon auf die Fasern des Garns durch mindestens teilweises Imprägnieren und/oder Beschichten;

d) mindestens teilweises Vernetzen des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon in dem auf die Fasern im Beschlichtungsschritt c) aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukt, um ein vernetztes Verstärkungspolymer aus dem Chitosan und/oder den Derivaten davon zu erhalten, wobei das Polymer dauerhaft an den Fasern des Garns verankert wird;

f) Ausführen eines Schrittes des Kett- und Schuss-Webens der Garne oder eines Wirkschrittes der Garne, wobei ein oder beide Kett- und Schussgarne, vorzugsweise nur das Kettgarn, das in dem Webschritt oder in dem Wirkschritt verwendet wird, ein Garn ist, das den Verfahrensschritten b), c) und d) unterzogen wird.

g) Ausführen eines Entschlichtungsschrittes zum teilweisen und kalibrierten Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern des Gewebes oder Gewirkes,

dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Entschlichtungsschritt g) mit teilweisem und kalibriertem Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten Verstärkungspolymers von derartigen Fasern des Garns mindestens teilweise durch Beaufschlagen der Fasern mit mechanischen Mitteln ausgeführt wird.

3. Verfahren zur Verbesserung der chemischen und/oder physikalischen Eigenschaften eines Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks, umfassend mindestens ein Garn aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt, wobei das Verfahren folgende Schritte umfasst:

h) Bereitstellen eines fertigen Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks, umfassend mindestens ein Garn aus natürlichen tierischen Fasern, pflanzlichen Fasern, synthetischen Polymerfasern und/oder künstlich hergestellten natürlichen Polymerfasern in reiner Form oder miteinander gemischt;

b) Herstellen einer Schlichtelösung, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon als ein Verstärkungsprodukt;

i) Beschlichten des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks mit der Schlichtelösung zum Aufbringen des Verstärkungsprodukts umfassend Chitosan und/oder Derivate davon auf die Fasern des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks durch mindestens teilweises Imprägnieren und/oder Beschichten;

l) Vernetzen des Chitosans und/oder der Derivate davon in der Chitosanzusammensetzung, um ein vernetztes Polymer aus dem Chitosan und/oder den Derivaten davon zu erhalten, das dauerhaft an den Fasern des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks verankert ist, und

m) Ausführen eines Entschlichtungsschrittes mit teilweisem und kalibriertem Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten Polymers von den Fasern des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks,

dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Entschlichtungsschritt m) mit teilweisem und kalibriertem Entfernen des vernetzten, aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon abgeleiteten Verstärkungspolymers von den Fasern des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks mindestens teilweise durch Beaufschlagen der Fasern mit mechanischen Mitteln ausgeführt wird.

4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, 2 oder 3, wobei der teilweise und kalibrierte Entschlichtungsschritt mindestens teilweise durch mechanisches Entschlichten ausgeführt wird, wobei die zu entschlichtenden Fasern physikalisch durch Abrieb, Reiben, Bürsten und/oder Behandlungen beaufschlagt werden, die dazu geeignet sind, einen Teil des vernetzten Chitosans und/oder des von Chitosan abgeleiteten Polymers von den Fasern zu entfernen.

5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, sofern abhängig von Anspruch 1 oder 2, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum physikalischen Beaufschlagen der zu entschlichtenden Fasern durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben während des Webschrittes auf das Garn ausgeführt wird.

6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, sofern abhängig von Anspruch 1 oder 2, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum physikalischen Beaufschlagen der zu entschlichtenden Fasern durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben beim Gleiten des Garns in Kontakt mit starren Flächen ausgeführt wird.

7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, wobei die starren Flächen aus Flächen der Rietzähne, Ösen, durch die das Garn beim Weben gleitet, Rollenflächen, die vom Garn berührt werden, und/oder den Borsten einer Bürste bestehen.

8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 4, sofern abhängig von Anspruch 2 oder 3, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum physikalischen Beaufschlagen der zu entschlichtenden Fasern durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben auf dem Gewebe, Gewirke oder Kleidungsstück ausgeführt wird.

9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 8, wobei der mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt durch Abrieb und/oder Reiben durch Bürsten des Gewebes, Gewirkes oder Kleidungsstücks oder beim Gleiten des Gewebes im Kontakt mit starren Flächen ausgeführt wird.

10. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, wobei der teilweise und kalibrierte mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zum Entfernen des vernetzten Chitosans und/oder des von Chitosan abgeleiteten Polymers von den Fasern durch Ultraschallbehandlung derartiger Fasern ausgeführt wird, vorzugsweise, wenn die Fasern in das Bad eingetaucht sind.

11. Verfahren nach Anspruch 10, wobei die Ultraschallbehandlung der Fasern gleichzeitig mit einem Web- oder Fertigbehandlungs-Bearbeitungsschritt ausgeführt wird, in dem die Fasern bereits in ein Bad eingetaucht sind.

12. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 11, wobei der teilweise und kalibrierte mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt zusätzlich zu einem chemischen oder enzymatischen Entschlichtungsschritt ausgeführt wird.

13. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 10 bis 11, wobei der teilweise und kalibrierte mechanische Entschlichtungsschritt durch Ultraschallbehandlung der Fasern, auf die das vernetzte Chitosan und/oder das von Chitosan abgeleitete Polymer aufgebracht wird, im Wesentlichen gleichzeitig mit dem teilweisen und kalibrierten, chemischen oder enzymatischen Entschlichtungsschritt durch Verwenden desselben Bades ausgeführt wird.

14. Verfahren zur Verbesserung der chemischen und/oder physikalischen Eigenschaften eines Garns nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13, wobei dem Schritt des Vernetzens des Chitosans des Verstärkungsprodukts, das auf die Fasern aufgebracht wird, der Schritt des Trocknens der Fasern des Garns und des Chitosans des auf die Fasern des Garns aufgebrachten Verstärkungsprodukts vorangestellt ist, um dadurch den späteren Chitosanvernetzungsschritt zu vereinfachen.

15. Verwendung eines Verstärkungsprodukts, umfassend eine Zusammensetzung aus Chitosan und/oder Derivaten davon in einem Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 14 zur Verbesserung der chemischen und/oder physikalischen Eigenschaften eines Garns.

Revendications

1. Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un fil fabriqué en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble, ledit procédé comprenant les étapes consistant à :

a) fournir un fil fabriqué en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble ;

b) préparer une solution d'encollage comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier en tant que produit de renforcement ;

c) encoller ledit fil avec ladite solution d'encollage pour appliquer ledit produit de renforcement comprenant du chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier sur les fibres dudit fil par imprégnation et/ou revêtement au moins partiels ;

d) réticuler au moins partiellement le chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier dudit produit de renforcement appliqué sur les fibres par ladite étape d'encollage c), pour obtenir un polymère de renforcement réticulé dudit chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, ledit polymère étant ancré en permanence aux fibres dudit fil et

e) effectuer une étape de désencollage pour l'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, et ancré aux fibres dudit fil, des fibres dudit fil, caractérisé en ce que l'étape de désencollage e) susmentionnée ayant pour objectif d'éliminer de manière partielle et calibrée ledit polymère de renforcement réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier de ces fibres dudit fil est effectuée par des moyens mécaniques.

2. Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un tissu ou tricot comprenant des fils fabriqués en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble, ledit procédé comprenant les étapes consistant à :

a) fournir un fil fabriqué en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble ;

b) préparer une solution d'encollage comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier en tant que produit de renforcement ;

c) encoller ledit fil avec ladite solution d'encollage pour appliquer ledit produit de renforcement comprenant du chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier sur les fibres dudit fil par imprégnation et/ou revêtement au moins partiels ;

d) réticuler au moins partiellement le chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier dudit produit de renforcement appliqué sur les fibres par ladite étape d'encollage c), pour obtenir un polymère de renforcement réticulé dudit chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, ledit polymère étant ancré en permanence aux fibres dudit fil ;

f) effectuer une étape de tissage chaîne-trame desdits fils ou une étape de tricotage desdits fils, où un fil ou deux fils de chaîne et de trame, de préférence le fil de chaîne seulement, utilisés dans cette étape de tissage ou dans ladite étape de tricotage, est un fil qui est soumis aux étapes b), c) et d) du procédé.

g) effectuer une étape de désencollage pour l'élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, des fibres dudit tissu ou tricot,

caractérisé en ce que ladite étape de désencollage g) avec élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier de telles fibres dudit fil est effectuée au moins partiellement en agissant sur lesdites fibres par des moyens mécaniques.

3. Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un tissu, tricot ou vêtement comprenant au moins un fil fabriqué en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble, ledit procédé comprenant les étapes consistant à :

h) fournir un tissu, tricot ou vêtement fini comprenant au moins un fil fabriqué en fibres animales naturelles, fibres végétales, fibres de polymère synthétique et/ou de fibres de polymère naturel artificielles, à l'état pur ou mélangées ensemble ;

b) préparer une solution d'encollage comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier en tant que produit de renforcement ;

i) encoller ledit tissu, tricot ou vêtement avec ladite solution d'encollage pour appliquer ledit produit de renforcement comprenant du chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier sur les fibres dudit tissu, tricot ou vêtement par imprégnation et/ou revêtement au moins partiels ;

l) réticuler le chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier de ladite composition de chitosane pour obtenir un polymère réticulé à partir dudit chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, qui est ancré en permanence aux fibres dudit tissu, tricot ou vêtement, et

m) effectuer une étape de désencollage, avec élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier, des fibres dudit tissu, tricot ou vêtement, caractérisé en ce que ladite étape de désencollage m) avec élimination partielle et calibrée dudit polymère de renforcement réticulé dérivé du chitosane et/ou de dérivés de ce dernier des fibres dudit tissu, tricot ou vêtement, est au moins partiellement effectuée en agissant sur lesdites fibres par des moyens mécaniques.

4. Procédé selon la revendication 1, 2 ou 3, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage partiel et calibré est effectuée au moins partiellement par désencollage mécanique par lequel on agit physiquement sur les fibres à désencoller par abrasion, frottement, brossage et/ou par des traitements adaptés pour éliminer une partie du chitosane réticulé et/ou du polymère dérivé du chitosane des fibres.

5. Procédé selon la revendication 4, dépendant de la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique permettant d'agir physiquement sur les fibres à désencoller par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée sur le fil pendant l'étape de tissage.

6. Procédé selon la revendication 4, dépendant de la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique permettant d'agir physiquement sur les fibres à désencoller par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée en faisant glisser le fil en contact avec des surfaces rigides.

7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, dans lequel lesdites surfaces rigides sont constituées par les surfaces des dents de peigne, des oeillets à travers lesquels le fil est glissé pendant le tissage, des surfaces de rouleaux en contact avec le fil et/ou les poils d'une brosse.

8. Procédé selon la revendication 4, dépendant de la revendication 2 ou 3, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique permettant d'agir physiquement sur les fibres à désencoller par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée sur le tissu, tricot ou vêtement.

9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique par abrasion et/ou frottement est effectuée en brossant le tissu, le tricot et/ou le vêtement, ou en faisant glisser le tissu en contact avec des surfaces rigides.

10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique partiel et calibré ayant pour objectif d'éliminer le chitosane réticulé et/ou le polymère dérivé du chitosane des fibres est effectuée par traitement par ultrasons de telles fibres, de préférence lorsque lesdites fibres sont immergées dans le bain.

11. Procédé selon la revendication 10, dans lequel ledit traitement par ultrasons des fibres est effectué en même temps qu'une étape de traitement de tissage ou de finissage, au cours de laquelle les fibres sont déjà immergées dans un bain.

12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique partiel et calibré est effectuée en plus d'une étape de désencollage chimique ou enzymatique.

13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 10 à 11, dans lequel ladite étape de désencollage mécanique partiel et calibré par traitement par ultrasons des fibres sur lesquelles le chitosane réticulé et/ou le polymère dérivé de chitosane sont appliqués est effectuée sensiblement en même temps que l'étape de désencollage chimique ou enzymatique partiel et calibré, en utilisant le même bain.

14. Procédé d'amélioration des propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un fil selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13, dans lequel ladite étape de réticulation du chitosane dudit produit de renforcement appliqué sur les fibres est précédée de l'étape de séchage des fibres dudit fil et du chitosane dudit produit de renforcement appliqué sur les fibres dudit fil, pour faciliter ainsi l'étape suivante de réticulation du chitosane.

15. Utilisation d'un produit de renforcement comprenant une composition de chitosane et/ou des dérivés de ce dernier dans un procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14 pour améliorer les propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un fil.